In this post we are going to show you how to grow your own wheatgrass right from your home or apartment. It is easy to do and just takes some patience, knowing the right way to do it, and understanding a few of the subtleties.
Wheatgrass is one of thehealthiest things you could add to your juice! It is said to be loaded with a plethora of nutrients as well as packed with chlorophyll. Many people drink wheatgrass juice for it’s energy benefits and healing properties. One of the greatest attributes of wheatgrass juice is that not only does it contain many well known nutrients it is also said to be loaded with a wide variety of micro nutrients.
Ann Wigmore, was among one of the earlier promoters of wheatgrass juice. Many of you may have heard her story of how she healed herself from many health problems through the consumption of her own home grown wheatgrass.
I personally always feel absolutely amazing after drinking wheatgrass juice. I first heard of wheatgrass juice as an energy boosting tonic, and then later discovered all of the other health benefits of this amazing juice. My energy levels are almost always higher when I am drinking this on a consistent basis and I just feel more positive. Sometimes I feel absolutely buzzed when I drink this juice and am so glad that I grow my own! There is definitely something good going on inside of this stuff!
Wheat grass juice is served at some juice bars and other establishments, but is not always available in everyone’s area. On average, you can find wheatgrass in some grocery stores selling for anywhere between $2-$4 for a small tray. The larger trays sell for much more. Growing your own wheatgrass from home can save you a lot of money and is also just a very satisfying experience.
So let’s get this rolling and move right along to what you will need to begin!
Part I. How To Make Your Own Sprouting Jar
The first thing you are going to need to start growing your own wheatgrass from home is a sprouting jar. A sprouting jar is used to sprout your wheatgrass seeds before you place it on the soil to grow. There are several sprouting jars that are sold specifically for this purpose, but you can save some money by making your own. If you simply do not want to mess with making your own jar though and would rather buy one that is all ready to go you can click here for an all ready to go Sprouting Jar.
Making your own sprouting jar however is very easy, will save you money, and is satisfying as well. On this page I will go over the simple instructions for how to make your own sprouting jar. This is the way I have made all of my sprouting jars and they work very well! (For the purposes of this tutorial series you are going to want at least 2 sprouting jars).
What you will need
- A glass jar of some kind-The jars that I use are the kinds of jars that once had a food product of some kind inside of them. I have used pickle jars, olive jars and spaghetti sauce jars. Basically you are wanting a decent sized glass jar that you can fit your wheat berries (seeds) into and can house them as they expand, which they most definitely will. You can also use a mason jar if you like, but it’s not necessary if you have these other types of jars. (The jar in the middle is a Newman’s Own spaghetti jar and the one on its left is a larger pickle jar just to give you an idea of the size of the jars in the photo).
- Some screen for your lid- Purchase or obtain some screen so that you can make the lid section of your sprouting jar. This screen can be bought at most local hardware stores or Home Depot type stores. The kind of screen that I use and that has worked very well for me is the fiber glass mesh type of screen. It is cheap, easy to keep clean, and very easy to work with.
- Some rubber bands- I recommend using a medium size type of rubber band, or the ones that are more commonly used when you think of a rubber band and not the larger ones. I would get 2-3 rubber bands for each jar you intend to use, just in case any of them break in the process. If you cannot get this many (in a squeeze) and really want to make your jar, just be careful with what you have.
- A pair of scissors.
If your jar is not cleaned out yet, get that puppy clean and ready for use! You can do this just like you would any normal dish or jar that you are going to reuse. Be sure to use some hot water so that it is as sterile as possible for use with your wheatgrass sprouting.
Get your screen and cut it into squares that will be big enough to go around the entire lid of your jar and also have extra sticking out of the sides. You don’t want to cut it to the exact shape of the jar lid, because you will need plenty more of it so you can rubber band it over the lid. You do not have to cut it into perfect squares as you can see in the picture. If however for aesthetic reasons you just want to, or it just happens to comes out that way then have at it!
Take your cut piece of screen to the sink and scrub it off with some soap and water. Be sure to rinse it off really well so that no soap residue remains on the screen. I basically use a dish scrubber, put the screen down inside of a clean sink and scrub it on both sides until I am satisfied. You want to rinse it off with hot water when you are done, so that it’s as sterile as possible for use with your wheatgrass seeds. Dry your screen out by towel, paper towel, or just by letting it sit to air dry.
Test your screen lid by placing it over your jar and rubber banding it into place. I usually try to get my rubber band around the bottom most section of the jar’s top part. This is below where you would normally screw on the lid to the jar. I do this to make the screen lid tighter so that the wheatgrass seeds will not come out or hang out in the top sides. Pull the screen tight after rubber banding it, but be sure to hold your rubber band while doing it because it might just decide to snap off the jar!
Once you are happy that your lid is a good fit you can take it back off and get ready for part two!!!
Part II. Where To Get Wheatgrass Seeds
The next thing you will need to do is to get yourself some wheatgrass seeds! The seed is commonly referred to as wheat berries. The kind that has worked the best for me and is commonly recommended by most who grow wheatgrass is the hard red winter wheat. Hard red spring wheat will work as well and is reported to have similar results. If you can get organic hard red winter wheat seeds (berries) then that would definitely be the best way to go and is what I would recommend. However, this may not always be a viable option for many and might cost a little more than conventional.
(For purposes of this tutorial you will want to have at least 2 cups worth of wheatgrass seeds. This is also equal to about 2 pounds).
You can order organic hard red winter wheat seeds online from a solid company who we recommend for all of your wheatgrass growing products. They are certified organic and all of our dealings with them have been good. You can order these Certified Organic Non-GMO Wheatgrass Seeds or These highly recommended wheatgrass seeds.
If you are looking to get the most bang for your buck though or really just want to get started and don’t want to wait for seed to come in the mail you can check your local grocery store in the bulk bin section. Coops or natural food type stores will carry hard red winter wheat seeds (berries) more commonly, but your chain grocery store may have them sometimes.
The seed that is available at my local coop store in the bulk bin section is an organic type of hard red winter wheat berry (seed) and has worked very well for me so far. With that being said there are many people that will recommend ordering it from the companies I have listed here. Ordering it ensures a clean wheat berry and is said to reduce the chance of molds growing on or around the wheatgrass.
I have had only minor amounts of mold at times and it has had no effect whatsoever on my wheatgrass. It is very easy to cut above this rather harmless mold when harvesting as it grows near the roots of the grass. I will cover more about mold and how to deal with this issue later on in this post. For now let’s continue on to part three which is going to cover how to sprout your wheatgrass seeds in preparation for putting them down on your soil!
Part III. How To Sprout Wheatgrass
In this section we will go over how to sprout wheatgrass in order to get it ready for placement on your soil. In part I we talked about the different kinds of jars you could use for your sprouting jar, and there was a picture of a few jars there. Depending on the size of your jar you will put different amounts of wheatgrass seeds inside. For the spaghetti sauce jar I talked about there, I would measure out about 1 cup of wheatgrass seeds and pour it inside. The photo to the right is that jar with 1 cup inside to give you an idea. I used to put a lot more inside of my jars, but believe me these seeds will swell up more than you think!
For larger jars similar to the pickle jar that was in the picture there, I would put around 2 to 2 and 1/2 cups of wheatgrass seeds inside. Once you get the hang of how much works, you will get better at just guessing a rough amount. For jars different than the two I just mentioned, you can make a guess and it’s better to guess a smaller amount versus a larger amount of wheatgrass seeds at first. As you will see after a few days, the seeds inside will expand greatly and you don’t want to have a jar jam packed full of wheatgrass sprouts with no breathing room or air in between them.
For this tutorial you will need to put at least 2 cups worth of wheatgrass seeds into your jars. So, you can either use one larger jar as described above with 2 cups inside of it, or two smaller jars with 1 cup each inside of them.
Once your wheatgrass seeds are inside your jar you will want to put the screen back over the lid and rubber band it into place. Now you will fill the jar full to the top with water and leave it to soak for 8-12 hours. I usually leave mine soaking overnight, but you can soak yours during the day as well. It really doesn’t matter as long as you leave it soaking for 8-12 hours.
Once it has finished soaking for this long you will want to drain out the water and rinse the seeds with fresh water. You do this by simply emptying out the water in the jar while the screen is on and then filling it up with fresh water and emptying it out again. I usually rinse my seeds this way 2-3 times, each time I do this.Make sure to turn the jar over each time and get a lot of the water out so that they are getting a fresh rinse every time you refill the water.
You will want to rinse your wheatgrass seeds this way three times a day while they are sprouting in your jar. This means three separate times in a day rinsing them 2-3 times each time.If you get really busy or just forget no need to worry, rinsing them 2-3 times, once or twice in a day will work also. Doing it three times a day this way is just more optimal in my experience. I found the best way to do this is to rinse them in the morning, once again near mid day or early evening, and then again at night or before I go to bed.
After rinsing them out each time you are going to want to let them sit upside down where they can drip out and also air out. This is another reason why we have a screen lid on top of the jar instead of one that seals closed. I found the best thing that works for me is to simply set them on my dish strainer rack and let them sit there all day and night. This way any extra water that is still in the jar can slowly drain out over time and there is also air flow happening which keeps mold to a minimum.
After about 36-48 hours of repeating the cycle described above your wheat seeds will begin to sprout and will have little tails coming out of them. I usually rinse them off a few more times at this point and make sure I empty as much water out of the jar as possible. After that you can now take off your screen lid. The picture below will give you a rough idea of what your wheatgrass sprouts will look like when they are about ready. They can have a little more or a little less growth also, but the picture below is about what they should look like.
Now that our wheatgrass is sprouted we are ready to move on to the next step!
Part IV. Planting Your Wheatgrass Sprouted Seeds
During part IV we will cover how to plant your wheatgrass sprouts and everything you will need in order to complete this step. If you have followed parts I through III you are now ready to put your wheatgrass sprouts down onto your soil! Before we can begin though you are going to need to have everything in order and ready to go.
What you will need
- 2 trays- A tray to put your soil in to grow your wheatgrass on and a tray that you will be putting on top of the other tray once your wheatgrass sprouts are there. There are many different kinds and sizes of trays that you can use for this. In general, I have used two different kinds and they seem to work the best for growing wheatgrass. My favorite trays are the 10 inch by 20 inch trays that you can get at garden stores. These are the larger trays that you can see on page 1 in the first image that shows our home wheatgrass growing setup. Also, to the right here is a picture of one of those trays and two of the smaller trays I will talk about next. My second favorite kind of tray that I use for growing wheatgrass is the smaller starter type trays that garden stores use to house their transplants. These are also the types of trays that wheatgrass is usually sold in for anywhere between $2-$4, in general. You can also find any similar tray that will work for you, but it needs to have holes in it or be able to have holes put into it. The large trays I buy do not have holes in them when I purchase them, so I use a small knife and make these myself underneath. I will talk about how to do this when we get into the how to part. I also wanted to make a quick comment on using containers other than these. I have tried a few other containers such as empty butter containers, empty hummus containers or other plastic circular type containers. Although they do work and will grow wheatgrass, for some reason I have had greater success with square shaped containers. I really don’t know why this is, but I just seem to grow more wheatgrass when using these types of containers that I mentioned. You can experiment for yourself and see what works best for you. The exception to this is a clear circular plastic type of bowl/plate that I picked up at a dollar store that you can see in the picture on the first page, to the right of each of the top two 10 by 20 flats of wheatgrass. You can search through these Wheatgrass Trays here if you’d like to order yours online .
- Soil to put inside of your tray- You don’t want to use just any old soil that you dig up somewhere. You will want to use an organic potting soil. If you cannot get organic potting soil, then a good potting soil will work. One thing that a lot of people do not think about is that your wheatgrass is going to be drawing its nutrients from the soil that you plant it on. If you want a healthier, more nutrient dense wheatgrass, then you are going to want a healthier more organic type of soil with the goodies that will feed your wheatgrass, which in turn will feed you. You will want your potting mix to have peat moss inside of it, and if it does not then you will want to add some to your potting soil mix. There are many different recommendations for how much peat moss to mix in with your soil. In general, anywhere from 1 to 2 parts peat moss per 3 to 4 parts soil will work. This will give you a ratio of 1/3 or 1/2 peat moss in your potting soil mix. The soil that I use already has peat moss inside of it and works very well for me! It has an amazing blend of different ingredients and is called Gardner’s Gold Organic Potting Soil. Any soil that is similar to the one I mention here should be good enough though for the purposes of growing your wheatgrass optimally.
- A watering container of some kind that has a sprinkler type head- I do not use one of these, but I will probably be using one as soon as I can get down to buy one. What I use is simply the type of strainer that you also use for straining out noodles or to separate liquid from solid food. I basically fill a container full of water and then pour it through the strainer so that it kind of simulates a sprinkler type head. You will want one or the other of these because when you water your wheatgrass, whether it be the soil or once it is growing you will want a nice even shower of water that will just moisten the soil and not over soak any area. If you do not have one of these and would rather just try to water without one I will talk about how I deal with mixing in water with the soil further on down on this page. What I talk about will also apply even if you used one of these and just accidentally over watered an area.
- (Optional) Black garbage bags or something similar- Some recommend to not use garbage bags as it will only help to foster mold. If you can get your wheatgrass trays into a nice shaded area with little light, then there will be no need for a garbage bag at all. If you live in a smaller area though and there is no way to avoid light exposure like myself, then a garbage bag will come in handy. I will talk about how to tuck it in loosely around the edges of your trays further down on this page so the maximum amount of air can still travel freely through and around your wheatgrass. I literally grow all of our wheatgrass starts in a corner of our kitchen and it has worked just fine for me so far!
- Last, but not least! Your wheagtrass sprouted seeds!
If your tray does not have holes in the bottom, then you will need to poke some in there yourself. I simply take a sharp kitchen knife or pocket knife (an ice pick would work great I am sure) and carefully twist it around where I want the hole. You don’t need the holes to be very big, but I do recommend making quite a few of them. Make sure you space your holes out in a somewhat consistent fashion so that they are spread throughout the bottom of the tray along the edges and the center part. The smaller type trays will usually already have holes in them.
Place your tray down wherever you are going to start your wheatgrass growing and get your bag of soil nearby. It is possible that some water will drip through the holes in the bottom at any time during all of this process. If you are worried about water dripping through, which will very possibly be dirt like water, then you will want to put something down to either catch this water or to prevent it from getting all over your floor. Since the sprouting period is usually anywhere around 3-4 days long I just mop up the area afterwards, but originally I placed plastic garbage bags down on the floor to catch any water that leaked out of the bottom of the trays. If you are doing this on a carpeted area, then you will definitely want to put something down that will catch the water so that it does not get all over your carpet.
Go ahead and open your bag of soil and fill your tray a little over halfway full with it. The larger trays seem to be about 2 and 1/2 inches tall inside and I generally fill them to about 1 and 1/2 inches. I generally fill the smaller type trays a tad bit over halfway. (The picture to the right is the larger tray and the picture below is the smaller one close up). If you have a watering can or a strainer like I talked about, then go ahead and water the tray with the soil in it lightly. You want to water it just enough so that it is nice and moist, but not too much so that it is soaking wet. Honestly, this part has taken me some practice and time to get just right myself so don’t worry if you water a bit too much the first time.
A trick I have learned to uniformly water it so that all of the soil is about the same moisture is to simply pour some water in at a time and then stir it up with my hands as I go. When I find a spot that is still dry I just add some more water and mix it all together with my hands. I do this until all of the soil is about the same moisture. This is where you can literally get your hands dirty! In general, you want the soil moist enough so that it is wet, but so if you squeezed it there would not be much water dripping from it. There is definitely a balancing act here, but you don’t have to be to nit picky about it. Just do your best to get it to about where I described.
Now, that your soil is all prepared and ready to go you will take your wheatgrass seeds and either take it out by the handful to put it onto your soil or simply dump the entire jar onto your soil. This is where it gets just a little bit tricky, but with some time and practice you will get better. You want to spread the seed evenly over the surface of your soil and cover as much of the soil as possible. In general, you want as little soil showing as you can get. You also want to try to not stack up the seed on top of each other as much as possible. Obviously, there is no way to be perfect here, but you will want to do your best to keep it as thin of a layer as you can while at the same time covering as much soil as possible. Some people get really detailed here and try to get it is as right as they can.
Depending on my mood and how much time I want to spend on this part, each time decides how much I fuss with it being perfect. I do want to say that you really do not want to have it stacked on each other way too much because your wheatgrass will not grow the same. This also in my experience fosters more mold. I have learned this the hard way from a few harvests where I thought more was going to be better and the results were a wheatgrass that took forever to grow as well as a lot of mold growth.
At the same time, however, I have learned that you do not want it spread so thinly that a lot of the soil is showing either because you will not get as much wheatgrass growth.When you go to far this way you get a much less dense wheatgrass that has quite a few thin patches. In general, you want to optimize the soil you are using and the time you spent on all of this so that you get the best results and the most grass possible. As with anything, this will take some experience doing it yourself a few times.
For myself so far I have found the best way to do this is to simply pour all of the wheatgrass seed out onto the soil at once and then smoothly spread it around with my hands. When I see some areas that either need more of the seed or that are piled up to high I simply take care of it as I go. There is no way to get it perfect though and there will almost always be some seed stacked upon one another.
Now that your seed is on your soil you can take your second tray and place it directly over the seed. I put mine bottom down so that it is sitting right on top of it. If your tray is in a spot where it will receive little to no light, then you do not need to worry about covering it with anything else. However, if it is sitting in a spot where there will be frequent light or some light here, you will want to place a black garbage bag over it. I have learned through trial and error to literally just throw the garbage bag over the top of the trays so they cover most of it from receiving light. It does not have to be perfect and you definitely do not want to fold bag underneath the tray or place the tray on top of the bag in any way. Basically, you want to keep as much light out as possible while keeping as much air flowing through at the same time.
You will want to keep your tray away from extremes of cold or hot as much as you can. The ideal temperatures for wheatgrass to grow is roughly somewhere between 60 degrees and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Obviously, this is not always possible, but just do your best to keep it in an area where extremes of temperature can be avoided.
We are now ready to move on to the next step!
Part V. Growing Your Wheatgrass!
Over the next 3 to 4 days your wheatgrass will remain underneath this cover and will begin to grow. It’s a good idea to check your wheatgrass daily to be sure the seed is not drying out. You do not need to check it persistently though. Checking it once a day will be more than enough. I do not recommend watering much at all during this phase. If you have a water bottle that can deliver a mist type of spray, you can use this occasionally if they seem to be dry. If you do not have one of these and your seeds seem to be drying out, then water them as lightly as possible.
After the third day or so when the sprouts are about 2 inches tall, you can go ahead and give it a little bit of water. Again, make this a very light watering that is just enough to moisten the soil. Sometime around, or on the fourth day your sprouts should be around 3 inches tall or so and this is when you can take off any covering that is on them and move them to your source of light!
Your source of light can be about any window or sliding glass door in your home or apartment where there is a decent amount of light coming in. We use our back sliding glass door area and it has worked amazingly well! When we want to grow even more wheatgrass, we use our bedroom windows that have a nice little wood ledge, which will accommodate some of the smaller trays. Some people use the light that comes in through a kitchen window and place their trays underneath there. In general, all you need is a source of light that will provide your wheatgrass with the sun it needs to grow, grow, grow!
Once your wheatgrass is happy in its new home you will want to look in on it daily, but also let it do its thing. Depending on how much direct sunlight and warmth your wheatgrass is exposed to you may need to water it more often than not.
I find that during the cooler months of fall, winter, and the early spring our wheatgrass does not need to be watered nearly as much as it does when it’s warmer. During cooler months there have been times where once I got my wheatgrass tray up and growing, I barely needed to water it at all.
During the warmer or hotter months of the year though you will want to check your wheatgrass on a daily basis to be sure it is receiving enough water. When I first began growing wheatgrass it was cooler, so I got used to those conditions and was surprised once I was growing a batch in the summer. After just about a day or so I noticed that the grass was looking thinner, withered a bit, and just plain unhappy!
What I did to check the soil was carefully put my fingers underneath the taller sections of the grass to feel the soil. I then also lifted the entire soil section of the tray inside very carefully just at one corner and felt underneath as well as checked the middle parts. I was amazed at how dry it had gotten in such a period of time, which is funny because I should not have been surprised at all. It was pretty warm! I just wasn’t used to the change of conditions and how that would effect my treatment of the wheatgrass.
So what I am saying is that you will want to monitor your wheatgrass at first on a daily basis to make sure it is getting what it needs. Once you begin to adapt a feel for this it will be easier for you to troubleshoot little problems that may come up. Under watering can be remedied real quick and you will be surprised at how resilient wheatgrass is. Once I started providing those batches I talked about above with the water they needed. It was amazing how quickly they recovered and began to look and feel like healthy, vibrant wheatgrass!
Another thing I wanted to cover really quick was the issue of mold. There are different kinds of mold that grow on wheatgrass and most of them are relatively harmless to us. There are some however that can be harmful to us and you will want to be aware of these . There is a lighter whitish in color type of mold that grows very commonly on a lot of home grown wheatgrass. This mold is said to be harmless to the human body, but I still like cutting above it when I see that it’s there.
The kind of mold you want to keep your eye out for is a darker kind of mold. Some of this kind of mold may also just have a dark spotty appearance to it. If you notice that your wheatgrass has a lot of this type of mold growing on it I would suggest discarding the batch and starting a new one.
I have had this problem only once and I believe it was because I had put way to many garbage bags over my wheatgrass trays in the initial growth stages, as well as I had watered them way too much. This is why I talk about how to cover your wheatgrass trays and water them properly.
In general, with a home type setup it is difficult to avoid growing absolutely no mold with your wheatgrass. Again, it’s very easy to harvest right above where it’s growing, as most molds grow at the very bottom part of your wheatgrass. We simply cut above where it’s growing and have had absolutely no problems with our wheatgrass juice ever.
To keep mold growth at a minimum, or to cut it out completely you will want there to be a decent amount of air flow over your wheatgrass trays. In the warmer times of the year I had an easier time with this, as I would simply leave the back sliding glass door open and the air would flow right in. If you do not want to leave a door or window open though it’s good to use a fan and/or air conditioner to keep the air flowing. It’s also good to try to maintain a temperature roughly between 60-80 degrees.
When it’s cooler and the door is closed you can use a fan when possible to help alleviate this problem. Something that many people do not talk about when related to mold as well is something that I have noticed you want to watch over watering your wheatgrass plants, but you also want to make sure they are receiving enough water at the same time. This balance between keeping them watered well, but not too watered is part of the learning experience involved with growing wheatgrass. In time, you just develop a feel for this and it won’t take too long before you know what to look for.
You will want to let your wheatgrass grow for anywhere between 7-14 days depending on your climate and what time of year it is. We have had batches that have been ready at all different times and we never really know precisely how long it will take each time. There are however a few indicators that will let you know when your wheatgrass is ready for harvest. The next part will cover this as well as how to harvest, store and juice your wheatgrass!
Part VI. Harvesting And Storing Your Wheatgrass!
Alright, you are now ready to find out about how to harvest, store, and juice your wheatgrass!
There are a few indicators that will let you know when your wheatgrass is ready to be harvested. First off, generally wheatgrass is usually ready to harvest when it’s about 7-10 inches tall. This is not the only indicator though, and there is one that I have learned to be more important. Height will just give you an idea about when to look for the main indicator for when your wheatgrass is ready to harvest.
Wheatgrass goes through a stage that is referred to as jointing. Jointing is when the wheatgrass blade develops a second stem. This second stem begins to grow closer to the bottom part of the blade of grass.
It’s generally understood this is the time when wheatgrass has reached its optimal growth for purposes of nutrition. What this means is this is when it has the most nutrients inside of it and this is when it is best for us to harvest so that those nutrients can be consumed by us.
You do not have to harvest your wheatgrass just as soon as you begin to see any jointing at all. Not all of the grass will have grown in a precise uniform fashion. Some blades will begin to joint sooner than others. Once I see that there are multiple blades of grass jointing, I will usually harvest within a 24 hour period time.
It is held that if you wait until much longer after this jointing period, that your wheatgrass will slowly start to lose its nutritional value. The goodies inside slowly began to convert into matter that does not have nutritional value for us. So once you start to notice the jointing stage has begun do not wait too long before harvesting.
To harvest your wheatgrass simply take a clean pair of scissors and cut it near the bottom. You will want to cut it about 1 to 1 and 1/2 inches above the soil line. When cutting your wheatgrass be sure to hold the part you are cutting in your hand so that it can neatly come free and into your hands without falling all over the place. If some of it does fall free, it’s no big deal. You can just gather that up and rinse it along with the rest of your wheatgrass once you are ready to use it.
If I know I am not going to use my wheatgrass right away, then I store it for later use. I have done this in the past by placing the clippings into plastic bags, which I then store in my refrigerator. I am finding out now that a better way to store it is to put it into glass or a plastic container. When I do store my wheatgrass in plastic bags though, I make sure to leave one end open for some air circulation. Sprout bags are also said to be good for storing wheatgrass as they allow premium air circulation.
In general, wheatgrass can store up to a week, but you want to use it as soon as possible. If your wheatgrass starts to turn yellow, or is already yellow, then you will want to discard it and not use it.
Below is a video I made where I talk a bit more about harvesting and storing your wheatgrass and show you exactly how to do it.
This takes us into my favorite part, which is about how to juice your wheatgrass!!!
Part VII. How To Juice Wheatgrass!
Alright, we are finally to the part we’ve all been waiting for! In this section we are going to cover the most optimal ways of juicing your wheatgrass, down to ways that are less efficient but will still work well enough to be worth it.
The first thing to clear up here is the fact that you cannot juice wheatgrass using a centrifugal type juicer efficiently. A lot of people have tried different things to overcome this, but they either don’t work or are highly inefficient, and you waste a whole lot of your precious wheatgrass.
If you already own a masticating type juicer or a triturating type juicer, then you are in luck and will already be able to juice your wheatgrass without purchasing anything else! If you would like to know more about all the different juicer types you can follow this link all about what juicer is best for me? That page will give you a whole lot of information all about the different types of juicers that are out there. After you’ve read that, you should check out our article covering the best masticating juicers.
If you don’t own a juicer at all, and really just want to juice wheatgrass and also save some money, then a juicer specifically made for juicing wheagrass alone is your best bet. A manual hand crank type of wheatgrass juicer is very efficient and will allow you to get the most bang for your buck. Manual wheatgrass juicers attach to a countertop or a table, and are also a great option if you’re traveling.
Here is a link to a quality manual wheatgrass juicer that I recommend: Handy Pantry HJ Hurricane Stainless Steel Manual Wheatgrass Juicer.
If you are definitely planning on juicing other produce items, then the best juicer for you would be a masticating type juicer or a triturating type juicer. There are quite a few different juicers out there and everyone has their own personal preferences.
I personally own an Omega 8005 nutrition center, which is a masticating juicer and works great for wheatgrass! It also comes with a 10 year warranty, which is one of the best warranties on any juicer out there! I can personally attest to this juicer as being efficient, easier to clean, and also more affordable than some other options. Omega also sells quite a few other juicers which are very similar and these are the 8003, 8004 and 8006 models. You can find these, as well as other juicers by following this link right here.
The last method we are going to cover on this page is to use a Vitamix to blend the wheatgrass and then filter it. This is done by adding your wheatgrass first and then adding a cup or more of water along with it as well. You blend this all together and then filter this through a nut juice type of bag to separate the grass blades and fibers, while keeping the juice. Many people who own a Vitamix only use this method and claim it works very well for them.
If You Want To Get Started ASAP!
You can get everything you need to get started with growing your own wheatgrass in the kit below! It has great reviews and is reasonably affordable for anyone looking to get started quickly.
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